Ikseon-dong is a pocket of small urban hanok houses built in the 1920s and 1930s. For decades it was a quiet, aging neighborhood — until cafes, restaurants and small shops moved into the old houses, keeping their tiled roofs and tiny courtyards. Today it is one of Seoul’s favorite retro spots.
How to explore
The lanes are barely wide enough for two people and twist like a maze. The best plan is no plan: wander slowly and peek into the shops under the tiled roofs. In the evening, when the lights come on in every alley, the mood gets even cozier.
Getting there
It is a few minutes’ walk from Jongno 3-ga Station (Lines 1, 3 and 5). Insadong and Changdeokgung Palace are close by, so it fits nicely into a half-day walk.